A slightly different post today!
I am turning to you for help finding a sleeve/bodice fitting instructor!
Sleeve fitting has been my biggest sewing nightmare so far. And I am yet to find a solution despite numerous attempts.
I’ll try to explain and illustrate (sorry for the pictures…)
Below is the bodice of Burda Peplum Top 08/12 114 Size 38 straight from Burda magazine pattern with forward shoulder adjustment.
Problems I could detect in above muslin:
- Poor arm range of movement,
- Poor fitting at the back armhole area
- Shoulder point too low
- Wide at side seams
- Forward shoulder and gaping at the front (you don´t see it above but I had to fix that)
- Sleeve is too long and wide
- Elbow dart is too low
How did I fix it:
- I raised and reshaped the armhole. I find all patterns have a very low armhole.
- I widened the front dart and shaped the last part as a diamond for better fit (I used a basting stitch that´s why the bust seam is not perfect).
- I have also been adjusting the forward shoulder using fit for real people.
- In this particular pattern I took in the side seams
- Removed the gaping by slashing, reshaping the armhole and transferring the width to the waist dart.
- Shortened the sleeve
- Raised the elbow dart
Below is the result:
What is the issue now?
- The front fits much better
- The back armhole seems a bit tight. Although there are wrinkles in the back area it does not feel tight.
- I should set the sleeve better (it’s hand basted) or there is some rotation needed.
What am I looking for?
Since all my attempts so far have failed, I am looking for an experienced sewing instructor who could assist me.
- Location could be London, Rome, Milan, Barcelona, Brussels, Luxembourg or other city in Europe (as long as there is a low-cost flight to get there!). I´d be happy to do it via Skype/Facetime if you have a webcam.
- I would estimate 2 hours private tuition or something along those lines (haven’t been able to find a two-day course I could attend).
- Languages can be: English, Italian, Spanish or French
- I would like to get some help fixing all the above once and for all, and understanding any fit limitation you may have with a woven (e.g. am I looking for something unrealistic?). Let me tell you that I have had these issues with several pattern companies: Vogue, Colette and even other.
- It would be useful to properly take my measurements and eventually draft a sleeve from scratch (this I could do outside the class if time doesn’t allow).
If you know anyone who could assist me, leave a comment below or drop me an email at sewingprincess(at)bombardone(dot)com.
I will be forever grateful!
Thanks for reading!