Sailing on the Lake Blouse Pattern and Tutorial

If you are looking for a quick summer blouse, here is a project for you: Sailing on the Lake Blouse… the name comes from the lake that inspired me on this project… Lake Maggiore in Italy (I will cover it in an upcoming post)
I believe this pattern is suitable for beginners since it’s only a one piece pattern. Given the wide shape (it looks a bit wider due to the breeze) and the adjustable elastic waistband, it will be suitable for a large variety of shapes and sizes. You can pull the blouse to your hips or make the waistband sit  around your waist… it’s up to you.

Moreover, the pattern is very flexible as seam allowances are included and you can easily adjust them to your preferences and body.

I am very happy about being finally able to create my first tutorial for you. This means that I have finally learned how to digitally create a pattern… I am so excited.

Supplies

• 1.5 meters/59 inches lightweight fabric (silk, voile or similar) width 140 cm/1.5 yard
• 5/6 cm wide elastic about 3/4 inches shorter than your waist or hips measurement. If the elastic is very firm, you may need to make it slightly longer because it won’t have as much stretch.
• Matching thread
• Jersey needle. Since you will use a lightweight fabric it’s better if you use a fine needle

Variations on this pattern

I like it fitted: certainly this pattern is not meant to be super fitted, but you can certainly make it a bit smaller if you like. Simply redraw the right-side line closer to the fold. Try with 2 inches (that will remove a total of 8 inches on the finished blouse… the joy of mathematics…) and adjust it accordingly

The V-neck: do not cut the neck opening as shown on the pattern.  Cut a slit along the middle front. Depth and curve will depend on your preference

Serger finish: if you have a serger you can finish the sleeves and neck line with a narrow-edge or rolled edge stitch. This means that you might have to adjust the neck line to make it narrower

Kafthan version: if you prefer a long version, like a kafthan… lenghten the side seams, skip the elastic, and simply finish the lower hem as explained in Step 9

Instructions

Step 1 – Download, print and assemble your pattern

Sailing on the Lake Blouse Pattern

The numbers and dots will help you matching the pages. (I realize now that next time I will also add some guides for cutting the paper more easily)
You can print the pattern on A4 paper. Ensure you print at 100% (no scaling).
A 10 x 10 cm test square is included so you can check that you have printed out your document correctly.

The image on the right will help you assemble the pattern.

If you are interested in digital patternmaking have a look at my previous post

Step 2 -  Fold your fabric in two along the selvage

Step 3 – Fold your fabric in two along the length

Step 4 - Place the pattern on the fabric along the fold opposite the selvage

Step 5 - Pin and cut your fabric

Seam allowances are included. 1/2 inch or a bit more if you prefer.

If you are unsure about the finished neck opening, e.g. if you have narrower shoulders it might fall off on you, I would suggest you cut a smaller opening. You can adjust it  right after if you try it on.

Step 6 – Pin (or baste) and sew the sides

Depending on your style preference you can make the sleeve opening wider or narrower. On my version I left about 30 cm opening. Decide what best suits you by trying on the pinned/basted version.

Remember the seam allowance is 1/2 inch.

If you prefer you can sew French Seams which encase the seam allowance (use 1/4 inch on each side).

Step 7 - Sew the elastic casing for the waistband

Remember to leave an opening to insert the elastic later.

Here is a nice tutorial that explains you how to do it, if needed

Tips for sewing elastic
Another tutorial for sewing elastic hems

Step 8 – Insert the elastic

Place one end of it in either a large safety pin. Secure the pin. Insert the pin into the opening of the casing, and thread it through. Push it through with the fingers all the way to the other end. If there are multiple panels, thread each through in turn, being careful to keep the right side of each piece aligned consistent with that of those already threaded.

Step 9 - Stitch the elastic ends together
When done threading the elastic through, securely machine-stitch the ends of the elastic together. Sew the opening you left during step 7 shut.

Step 10 – Hem the sleeves

Finish your sleeves with a double folded hem. Fold up your hem allowance twice (1/4 inch each fold). Then stitching a straight stitch along the middle of your folded hem. This will ensure that your raw edge is nicely hidden in the fold.

Additional tutorial on how to sew a double folded hem

Step 11 – Hem the neck line

Follow the same process as in Step 8

Step 12 - You’re done

Try on your finished and ready to wear blouse

Step 13 – Smile

If you wish to take a picture and email it to Sewing Princess… I will post it on this blog

If you have any questions or comments on this tutorial, I would be happy to hear from you… So I can improve for the next one.

Thank you for reading!